I started writing this last year because I missed our yearly camping trip. I finished it last week. It's more for Cal than about Cal. Cal will go to his first Tomales this Thursday.
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When I was a kid, my brother, sister and I would sing our own version of a song from Annie. “Tomales, Tomales, I love you Tomales, you're only a day away.” We sang it once we reached the hills near the gritty bay and smelled Eucalyptus trees, inserting the time increment for how far away we were from our yearly affair with the bay.
My family clan and some lucky friends gather on a Tomales beach most summers. We’ve returned yearly for more than 40 years.
Our bond to the bay and each other is so unique and compelling in this spiraling, quick moving world. The bay stays on our smelly breaths long after the sun sets on that last Saturday night. Our hairs persist of campfire smoke, a full and nauseating smell, through triple lathers. When we open our camping bags, sand slides and scratches uncomfortably in the vinyl cages. The aftermath of unpacking is so daunting that it almost assuredly gets put off … and put off. But all these annoyances are small beans compared to what Tomales Bay is for us.
To cross the Tomales Bay and lay claim to our sandy cove on the other side, we need a boat – enter the newly restored Tomales Tomato and Capin' Beth and second mate Abe. The bay itself is 12 miles long and a couple miles wide and relatively shallow, occupying the west end of a rift valley created by the San Andreas fault.
During the day, we keep busy chatting as we peel off clothing layers, like super ripe bananas, as the sun peaks then sinks in the sky. By night, we wrap ourselves in blankets and squeeze around the campfire, always on alert like birds of prey for breathe-easy areas and meditating on songs from the past, laughter circling from the fire to the sky, hours dense with honesty, guitar melodies, and sun-recovering faces lit up by smooth flames. We stoke the fire and tend to it like it’s our collective child. If it’s clear, you better believe the stars are out and bright.
There is an elaborate cooking schedule at Tomales, with each of us taking turns threading together beach-wide meals, which are really events in themselves, rotating people and cookware in and out of a camp kitchen that operates like a Rubik’s Cube – the food is gourmet, but camp style, and there’s lots of it. No one goes to bed hungry. There is much preparation before we even go.
Packing for Tomales starts weeks before. We max out our cars with food, clothing, books and games, but we only use about a tenth of it. Yet a collective anesthesia promises we’ll bring the same truckload of crap next year – although we try to consolidate things. To account for the camping largesse, we certainly do our best to help unload boats (or feign sleep) and share leftovers, giving of our food as we give of ourselves.
There are famous Tomales lores – like when cous Esa ate sandwiches with snail-track slime, the adults staged a discovery of shark bone jaws for Ry, and the many myths shrouding Hog Island. There’s also those way-back days when our hippy elders showed us their white behinds through photos (now imprinted like search lights in our minds), partied through the night, and camped on the beach in garbage bags, getting slicked from dewy mornings.
Then there are the carefully etched memories – gray whales caught in the bay at night singing under a bright moon; high tide one year kept us awake as it flirted with the faces of our tents and singed the fire and sent us scurrying like frantic mice on a sinking ship; weddings and love celebrations; Aunt Beth fearlessly swimming to Hogs Island; an eager troop of hikers temporarily lost while taking a “short cut” and young Abe, suffering from stinging nettle’s prickly wrath, asking us to leave him behind; the time I peed in the soap bucket; Shaun asking my family if he could formally join it; Aunt Scout’s discovery of an entire male elk that died close to campsite by a creek; the time when Tomales tomato shut down and left some in the middle of the bay and others freaking out; the artful picnic table we embraced with paint and left at the campsite and used it for years; and my dad flipping and piling on pancakes until lunchtime – in addition to countless other warm memories.
And don’t forgot those hazy but juicy sweet childhood memories – pretending to be black beauty by cantering along the rubbery wet sand; sitting on the warm, lighted night ground against my mom’s legs; Mill’s bucket aquariums; cous Erick covered in slimy bay bottom; collecting starfish and Ry naming the kinds; Captain Kirk as more myth than man; hours spent folded in half at the knees to get close to animals; running in the pack of wild cousins; and getting goose bumps from those huge crab claws making guest appearances from fractures in the rock – we felt brave as we prodded them with sticks until they pinched in response, sending us flying.
Finally, there are the perennial items that we can always look to – black seal pinheads bobbing in and out of the horizon like mirages; barnacles and stranded jelly fish as enemies of our bare feet; Nick’s Cove; bird songs coming and going in the morning; pelican beaks; swaths of seaweed salad; pouty-lipped anenomes; a cool, gray start to the day; games played with passion; politics and emotions; day hikes; the shit hole; the cafeine/coffee vultures; a jovial clan around the fire; music; cuddling with honeys; slick hair and natural smelling bodies; guac gone a second ago; belly laughs; and lots of shared stuff and memories.
I have this funny question: what if our real life is Tomales Bay and the rest of it is how we keep busy? So our livelihood consists of sandy tents, smoke smell that clings to jackets like small hands, the vague uncomfort of salt lips and damp pant legs, no clocks or phones, days of brilliant restlessness, the real work of establishing shelter and making food, hiking through the thick of what nature has including prickly grasses and poison oak just to see an inch of the ocean, and nights where warm, sand free socks bring us a world of comfort. That sounds pretty authentic to me. Our life beside this estuary is something to behold. It is something to bequeath to our children.
All of this is why those first adventurers boated over, and why we still do. If we skip a year, so be it. It’s not a perfect tradition, but it’s ours. No matter how you play it, we hold in our palms this sacred possibility and this silent magnetism that asks us, despite the daunting task of preparing like mad people and only barely dealing with the aftermath, to return.
If not tomorrow, than Tomales, Tomales, someday soon.